Idea of Varanasi

                          Varanasi means different things to different people. After the announcement of the candidature of Narendra Modi for "god's own constituency", philosophers, political scientists, sociologists, political commentators and media persons are trying to decipher the "idea of Varanasi". The rainbow city has hundreds of colours . Politically the city can be termed as " seat of Hindu orthodoxy", "birthplace of Hindu fundamentalism", " field of rebellion" and " garden of India's composite culture" etc. The city is rightly called "religious/spiritual capital of India".

                                 

                              Here are some news stories centered around some foreign dignitaries who experienced, in some way, Varanasi. They shed some light on the different facets of the eternal city.

                                                                                 Diana L. Eck 

                                   A LIGHT IN THE DARKNESS

                      Varanasi,  March 19, 1995. Her quest began three decades ago in bozeman, a small town in the Montana in the Rockies. It ended in Varanasi or Kashi, the city older than history and all her questions gradually dissolved in the holy Ganga.

                                           For Diana l. Eck a distinguished theologist and professor of Comparative Religion and Indian studies at Harvard, Gita and Gospel, Jesus and Jyotirlinga became one.

                                            She says that in Kashi, the Mahasmashan ( the great Charnel ground) death is not the opposite of life, death can only be the opposite of birth. The west is busy with the denial of death. To segregate death into hospitals and asylums but in Kashi death is very much part of life. The Yaksha-Yudhishthir position ( the inevitability of death) is necessary to make life worth living. 

                                          Ms. Eck, who obtained her Ph.D. from Harvard on the topic  "Cultural Glory of Kashi", says it is imperative to organise world-wide network of people who had some relationship with Varanasi to enable these spiritual citizens of Kashi to interact better.

                                           The author of the 1983 book " Banaras : City of Light" and the recently published book " Encountering the God: Spiritual Journey From Bozeman to Banaras", says " masti" as Banarasis call it, is a zest fro life, to live life to its fullest. 
                                          "Masti"does not stop at chewing Paan, consuming bhang, tasting sweets and appreciating art and culture. Masti requires a spiritual frame of mind which explores meaning of life and death, mortality and immortality.
                                            Ms. Eck worried about the deterioration of Kashi as centre of learning, the miserable condition of the city especially riverfront and decreasing cultural awareness .
                                             She says that unique cultural flavour of Kashi must be preserved.  Knowledgeable people and citizen groups should make concerted efforts to teach and enable people, especially new arrivals and children  to understand , appreciate and love the distinctive way of life of Kashi.
                                               The local administration should show more sensitivity and sense of urgency to make the riverfront more beautiful and preserve the crumbling buildings and temples. It would be good for the gods and people alike, she said.
                                              She said the symbolism of god as Jyotirlinga was very strong in Kashi. This sublime understanding of god as Jyotirlinga enabled her to understand Christianity differently. She quoted the gospel, "light shines in the darkness"to emphasise that Jesus is also a form of Jyotirlinga.
                                                Ms. Eck believes that India can be great example for the world of peaceful co-existence of people of different religions, cultures and languages. It was sad that at present when the world needed India's leadership, the country was midst of communal and sectarian problems.
                                                                                                                                                             She said it is true that all Indian religions, Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism had common roots but they were changing and assuming new identities. A contemporary movement like that of the Buddhist monks in Bodha Gaya might not be stopped by a reminder of common roots of 2,500 years ago. It needed contemporary efforts and solution.
                                                  Ms. Eck was perturbed by the presence of para military forces, barbed wires and fencing around  the Gnanvapi Mosque-Kashi Vishwanath temple complex. It was a disgrace that Banarasis , both Hindus and Muslims, had allowed the situation to take this turn, she said.
                                                   She also said that cultural and ethical globalisation might not be able to keep up with economic globalisation. There was an urgent need to evolve a global ethics to make economic justice, gender equality and non-violence a global commitment, she said.  Human relations, however, can not be evaluated in terms of market. In the end, the final yardstick was our sense of truth, she said.
                                                      Ms. Eck finds some solace when she hears the rickshaw bells in the heart of the city. It is like melodious song to her.
.

                               Idea of Varanasi

                          Varanasi means different things to different people. After the announcement of the candidature of Narendra Modi for "god's own constituency", philosophers, political scientists, sociologists, political commentators and media persons are trying to decipher the "idea of Varanasi". The rainbow city has hundreds of colors . Politically the city can be termed as " seat of Hindu orthodoxy", "birthplace of Hindu fundamentalism", " field of rebellion" and " garden of India's composite culture" etc. The city is rightly called "religious/spiritual capital of India". Now the Banarasis hope that they will elect a Member of Parliament who might become Prime Minister of world's largest democracy.

                                 

                              Here are some news stories centered around some foreign dignitaries who experienced, in some way, Varanasi. They shed some light on the different facets of the eternal city.

                      

                              Princess Margaret in Varanasi slum

                              ------------------------------------------------------

                              Varanasi, March 2, 1996. Dulari sits quietly at the door of of her hut while a lensman from Britain tries to capture on film the creases on her face left by a life of hardship.

                               The sudden interest of Fleet Street in the inhabitants of Kazzakhpura, one of the worst slums in the "world's oldest living city" was sparked off by the brief visit of the  Princess Margaret, an an executive director of UNICEF.

                              She wanted to acquaint herself with implementation of the basic urban services under the antipoverty programme funded by the international agency. The duchess, after her visit flew back home and declared to the press that she found a " sublime layer of spiritual living , contentment and family commitment" in Dulari and other inhabitants of the slum.

                              Her comparison of slum life in India with the " materially rich but spiritually improvised " life in London, predictably invited the wrath of the media. The Times and The Sunday Express published articles critical of Princess Margaret's observations, touching a raw nerve of the royal family- the marital discord in the younger generation. Columnist Nigella dealt the issue more on a theoretical plane in The Times while Peter Birkett of The Sunday Express air dashed all the way from London to Varanasi to spend a night in a weaver's hut in Kazzakhpura.

                                 Nigella sought to know that apart from appreciating slum life, if one is really offered a choice of living in St. James Palace or in a Varanasi slum, a second thought is needed. " It may be crude to point out that the Duchess, an admirer of the life that is lived in such poverty, has been staying in comfort in modern hotels during her visit".

                                 Princess Margrate's "realisation of Western decadence was the result of a sense of guilt about our own material comfort and a feeling of disappointment that these do not make us as happy as we would like to be", The Times said.

                                 The Duchess's statement that she envied the Hindu women for fostering a society which values its elders and respects the commitment towards the family was a "sort of new-age speak which the royal family has of late mastered", Nigella said.

                                 Meanwhile the city administration, on its part, is pleased that the Duchess had shown appreciation of their efforts to improve the living conditions in the slums.

                                  God's Own Constituency (3)

                       
                               Narendra Modi and Arvind Kejriwal's presence in the electoral field has added a long overdue importance to this eternal city. Otherwise for the journalists of the so-called national media , Varanasi is a dull news source on face value. Only once a week a journalist of national media can find a happening that can attract attention of metropolitan bhadraloks. So sometime active and successful  journalist   took their posting  in Varanasi as punishment posting. But as and when someone discovers the soul value of the city he or she is bewildered - a stark realization that you have to cover not a city but an entire universe .And to be sure  a poor  journalist can not sit under a bodhivriksha on meditation to attain enlightenment , but simply to do news reporting.
                                  Even if not to report, a journalist here can be reminded by an ordinary Banarasi that Dashashwamedha Ghat is the place there ten ashwamedha yagnas were performed; Mother Annapurna , the kitchen goddess adopted the name of Anna-prenna in Roman mythology; Rajrajeshwari, the presiding deity of Lalita Ghat had migrated to Egypt to become Isis on the banks of Nile; the Brahmins of Varanasi undertook a journey to Jerusalem to become priests; Lord Jesus had studied the scriptures on the Ganga Ghats, Adi Shankara was challenged by a Chandal regrading the nature of ultimate reality; the Lord Buddha had chosen this city to roll on wheel of Dharma .... and never ever say these are myths. In Varanasi, myths are reality and reality is a myth.
                                 While mirroring the past , Varanasi also cradles a message for the 21st century. Annie Besant had announced that future civilization would be created in Kashi and California. The validity of this assertion can only be ascertained by experiencing life in both these cities. Not many Banarasis are fortunate enough to undertake a journey to California but many tourists from North America find their way here for a spiritual journey.
                               
                                   On the face value Varanasi is just like any other city of India, perhaps filthier and more chaotic. An ailing cow or a beggar or a widow dies on the pavement, uncared and unnoticed. The experience was worded by a 19th century British woman writer as : Varanasi is the saddest city on god's earth.
                                    A few years ago , Elizabeth Turner , a tourist from Europe spend 3000 dollars to reach to the conclusion that Varanasi is hell. John Gustafsson, a Swedish chef as luckier - it cost him only a few hindered dollars to discover that the city is worse than hell. Still thousands of foreign tourists visit the city and many yearn to live here forever. If someone ever takes pain to measure happiness index , then city will be on top. And please to debate here.
                                     The city is truly a global village. Citizens of virtually every continents, if not countries, can be seen walking on the roads and narrow lanes . The roads are no more than a street and galis  resemble three or four feet wide tunnels. If  a bull, vehicle of lord Shiva, decides a take a rest and becomes stationary , all movement in the gali gets blocked.
                                     The continent called India is also very well represented in the city. In fact many ethnic groups have their own localities here, speaking their mother tongues and maintaining their distinctive way of life. But even a short stay in the city is enough to be initiated in Banarasisness. And the city accepts all open heatedly. the pandas, mallahs, minor guides and vendors speak  many languages. Of course, their language has a very, very limited vocabulary ; the language of heart takes care of the rest.
                                    Varanasi has many names- Kashi, Banaras, Avimukta. Maha Smashan and Ananda Kanan etc.
                                    ( Some inputs are taken from book Dateline Varanasi )

            Varanasi : God's Own Constituency (2)

                So the challenger, Arvind Kejriwal has landed in the holy city of Varanasi to take on formidable Narendra Modi. And he began with a holy style, taking a holy dip in the Ganga at the downstream. Then he proceeded to seek blessings of the presiding god, Kashi Vishwanath, the lord Shiva. He was well apprised about the sacred composition of the city as he made a point to visit temple of Kaal Bhairav , the City Kotwal. Kaal Bhairav is the chief of the staff  of Shiva , in charge of law and order of the city.

                  Authority of Kaal Bhairav is well eastblished and respected and when ever new police chief comes to the city he invariable visits the temple at the first opportunity. After all the mortal one has to seek the permission and blessings of his or her divine counterpart to maintain law and order. Modi, a few week ago  visited the city and had darshan at Kashi Vishwanath temple. But he is still to visit Kaal Bhairav temple.The PM aspirant might also take a holy dip in the Ganga if security apparatus permit. But it will be at his own risk, as the holy river is polluted, though much less than the polity of the country.

                Who will get blessings of the lord Shiva , the Ashutosh ( the lord who is easy to  please)- Modi or Kejriwal. It is anybody's guess. The lord is beyond the good and evil and often bless the devotee demons . And it is  left to other gods to control these powerful Shiva devotees.

                One wonders why Kejriwal missed the temple of mother goddess Annapurna , spouse of the lord who ensures that no one in the holy city sleep empty stomach. 

                Filing of  nomination papers for the god's own constituency will begin from April 17 and perhaps Modi and Kejriwal will file their papers in any date of the third week of the month.

As world’s oldest city is all set to witness an epic election battle on May 12, 2014,  Banarasis are duty bound  to facilitate fellow journalists from India and abroad, curious India watchers and down to earth researchers understand vital facets of the city evolved over the centuries. The blog is aimed to fulfill needs of surfers looking for historical, cultural and political perspective of the current electoral battle, which in a way would decide the fate of India.

                blog will carry  basic election data, profiles, keen contests and political history of the city and much more.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Varanasi: god’s own constituency

                                                                                                         Narendra Modi vs Arvind Kejriwal                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Varanasi is a great challenge for journalists, for that matter it is no less a great challenge for gods. When Shiva, lord of destruction, chose this city as his winter capital (summer capital is at Kailas-Mansarovar in the Himalayas) he faced stiff resistance from Banarsis. But the latter finally gave in and accepted Shiva as presiding deity of the city. It is not clear what made the Banarasis undergo this change of heart, but one of the reasons must be, as one understands the Banarasis temperament, the fascination for worshiping the phallus. So, virtually every household has a shivaling. And like any enlightened scholars Banarasis know the shivalingas is in reality an emblem of light- the light of life and liberation.

                 And today when the lesser gods of Indian politics are descending here from every nook and corner from the country one wonders how Banarasis will negotiate these guests. And there are many advice of caution for new arrivals. In a city where everybody is a guru and raja don’t ever boast of your credentials before Banarasis lest you will face blunt rebuke: Tun hayuwa ke? (Who are you, by the way) ……ladaoo? And please don’t ask for translation of the key word. And if you keep asking the meaning, kem  chhe, kem chhe then listen- ladaoo chhe.

              Please don’t misunderstand Banarasis we are not xenophobic. We actually consider outsiders as our siblings. There is always a Banarasi element in every human being. Every one carries a Banarasi DNA, dormant or awakened. late  Chakachak Banarasi, the ‘national poet” of Banaras, in his famous kundlis, used to narrate the genesis of various castes and communities of India.  In the annual holi kavi sammelan at Assi, the famous poet, in the presence of thousands of revelers, would remind them that their birth, much more than anything, was result of pilgrimage to the holy city. Chakachak would say, ask your forefathers, they will proudly admit- hum tirthe se vansh badayib tor baap ka kaa (I would extend my clan undertaking pilgrimage to Varanasi, no quarrel please)

          So Narendra Modi or Arvind Kejriwal or any other mortal aspirants, all are welcome in the holy city. It is on our conditions and at their own risk.

           In fact Narendra Modi is the third Gujarati , in recent centuries, who is seeking seal of authority of Kashi for his career. Founder of Arya Samaj Swami Dayanand  visited the holy city in late  19th century to convert the pundits to his new creed. Banarasis would claim that Swami Dayanand was thoroughly defeated in shastrartha.  A few decade later Mahatma Gandhi came to Varanasi to seek blessing of grand old lady of Indian nationalism Annie Besant. Mahatma visited the city many times and had a love and hate relationship with the city.Now it is Narendra Modi's turn to win over Banarasis for his claim for post of Prime Minister. his main challenger will be Arvind Kejriwal from Haryana.

            For us banarasis both of them are trainee ganas of lord Shiva. in the holy city they would be initiated in full ganaship.